This'll prolly be long; I apologize. I don't know how to organize my thoughts so that my confusion is coherent...
I recently converted to playing solely at HR for it's better tables; I took an outing to Treasure Bay with a couple "DIs" and found that it's almost as solid as HR but with a $5 minimum (and no crowds). After my exposure to TB, I came home and practiced a different toss to try to mimic the TB table results (TB seems even more "dead cat bounce" than HR).
This "new" target-zone landing area (about 2 feet from the wall) has resulted in a BT of 6.63 SSR, but a Chi-Sq'd number of .0107. If I chose a different Transpose72 dice set, the SSR is 7.83. The dice set I'm using is 62/54. It was recommended by BT and favors Trash and Outside numbers--and consequently, I bet Across (and PL w/ $25/30 Odds) with a Field bet after 3 payoffs. I've been pretty successful with this scheme--tossing the BT dice set and using an "Outside" betting strategy (that sounds like it's almost geared for Crapless [which I've never played]). The new landing zone has worked at HR, too.
I've managed to survive at the table until I've rolled one of these long hands (usually cashing out for about a 60% profit or better). But I've won these sessions with no attention to a specific number--I just try to keep the dice on axis so's the H4/10 will come up (and my HW bets pay off), but other than that, my dice set knowledge isn't focussed on sniping (hitting a specific point)... AND BTracker data seems to show that I toss ODOA at best about 24-25% of the time.
Should I change my focus from "long rolls" to point shooting? As I understand it, some of this is "personality"--but I'm not spread Across looking for action--I do it because my "dice control" is that I hit more Outside than Inside numbers without a prepoderance of Primary Face hits. I'm willing to change my game to be a point shooter IF I can find dice sets to snipe numbers. (I DO seem to get enough routine H4/10s with my Off-Axis set up of 62/54 to make the HW worthwhile.)
I know that the Coaster Chart should help me; the usual crossed-6s and V2s and V3s dice sets don't seem to give me a preponderance of desired point numbers; I'm all over on axis, but not with what I'd consider truly favorably Primary Face hits (my best BT books record a PF rate of about 15.3%--not enough for me to bet the HW4/10 if I were to start with any rotated variation of the 55/xx dice set--). Sooooo... maybe I should scour the Coaster Chart for ODOA 6/8, 5/9 and 4/10 point settings? If so, how should I compare my BT Coaster Chart ODOA projections with an actual successful Point Shooter's stats?
And do actual Point Shooters bet Inside or Across in order to cover their "misses"? Or do they just bet "everything" they used to intend for Across/Inside bet, now only as the Free Odds wager?
Thank you, Guys!
Point shoot or play for the long roll?
Moderators: 220Inside, DarthNater
Re: Point shoot or play for the long roll?
Personally, I will take a long hand, rich in box numbers, over a hand with multiple points made every single time. I'd be choosing sets that are not rich in trash numbers as my primary in point set.
While I think that the TB table may be one of the best tables in all of Biloxi, it does play short which can mess with your mechanics if you're not used to it. Play it a little further back than you would normally from either SR or SL. But since you're more comfortable at SO, the short table is definitely something you're going to have to be cognizant of and tread a little lightly until you adjust. Similarly, if you play at TB and then head back immediately over to HR, there will be another adjustment period to get dialed back in on their table length.
The other issues at TB are the low maximums (only $300!) and the lack of an auto buy on the 5 and 9. You can buy the 5 and 9 there, but you'll have to pay the vig up front. No thank you. The dealers there can tend to be a little on the slow aide and you need to watch your payouts to make sure they're accurate. But I do enjoy playing there if I need a break from HR and if I can get a spot on their table, which can be a challenge at times, as it is most certainly a locals place.
I'd really need to see you BT book to get a better feel for the reasoning behind the apparent disconnect between your max SRR (and seemingly fairly narrow spread) compared with your chi square score. How many tosses were in that book?
While I think that the TB table may be one of the best tables in all of Biloxi, it does play short which can mess with your mechanics if you're not used to it. Play it a little further back than you would normally from either SR or SL. But since you're more comfortable at SO, the short table is definitely something you're going to have to be cognizant of and tread a little lightly until you adjust. Similarly, if you play at TB and then head back immediately over to HR, there will be another adjustment period to get dialed back in on their table length.
The other issues at TB are the low maximums (only $300!) and the lack of an auto buy on the 5 and 9. You can buy the 5 and 9 there, but you'll have to pay the vig up front. No thank you. The dealers there can tend to be a little on the slow aide and you need to watch your payouts to make sure they're accurate. But I do enjoy playing there if I need a break from HR and if I can get a spot on their table, which can be a challenge at times, as it is most certainly a locals place.
I'd really need to see you BT book to get a better feel for the reasoning behind the apparent disconnect between your max SRR (and seemingly fairly narrow spread) compared with your chi square score. How many tosses were in that book?